The End

Today we reached the end of our pilgrimage. Yesterday we had a moderate walk from Cee to the town of Fisterra. We found a nice Inn to stay in for two nights and so today, without backpacks, we took the short hike to the tip of the penninsula. I feel sad that our pilgrimage journey is at an end. There is no further to go.

We shift now to the journey home. It's Scott's wife, Annie's, birthday today and Scott's call to her was a great reminder to us both that we have so much to be grateful for at home. Nonetheless, it has been a privalege and a joy, for these two and half weeks and 280 miles, to be called Peregrinos.





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The Ocean

Today we reached the ocean. It was a dramatic and difficult hike. Although we only went about twelve miles most of it was in driving rain through about ten miles of hilly, unprotected moor without a building in sight. We were soaked and chilled and pressing on against very strong headwinds. This difficult hike ended happily. We've stopped at Cee, about six miles short of our goal but still on the ocean. For only the second time since we began our walk we've chosen to stay at a simple hotel instead of the public hostels. It is a joy to warm up and fill up after the chill and hunger of the Camino.


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Our Longest Day

Today was our longest day on the Camino. We walked well over twenty miles. It had other challenges as well. The first two hours were virtually without coffee and so felt like the zombie effect we'd read about. Our packs were heavier than usual because we wanted to be prepared for long stretches without food. It rained, sometimes quite hard, on and off throughout the day. All served to emphasize how fortunate we have been up until now. We also feel we have the resources, in many ways, to face the challenges of the Camino. Tomorrow to Finnisterre and the ocean.


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Camino de Fisterra

Today we began a new route, to Finisterra. It is a less traveled way to the ocean. After today, each day will require long walks of at least 30 km. Today was a lovely walk even through the frequent, but usually light, showers. The landscape reminded me of the landscapes of my childhood in Delaware and in summer camp in West Virginia- lush with rolling hills and lively rivers. Another photo tomorrow.


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Compostela!

We did it! We started our morning a bit late with the intention of taking our time and arriving tomorrow. We soon found we were making great time and so set ourselves the goal of arriving in time for the noon Mass.

After a sprint through the very extended suburbs of Santiago we arrived at the Cathedral just in time to sing a familiar tune to Alleluia for the gospel acclaimation. We stood a bit to the side in the packed Cathedral where we heard the Bishop preach, received the bread and saw the famous giant incense pot, the Botafumeiro, swing across almost the full width of the crossing. It was all we'd hoped. God is good.

Right after the service we took a couple of pictures, got our certificate of completion and then celebrated with perhaps the best seafood lunch we've ever had. Tonight we relax in town before moving on to the ocean. There isn't a day that goes by when I don't feel deep, deep gratitude, especially for Chloe, Harper and Simon and for St. Paul's. I know Scott feels the same way about his people because we talk about it. We are blessed men.


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Twenty Kilometers

We are less than 12 miles from Compostela. Both yesterday and today were unseasonably cool days with intermitant clouds and even light showers. They were long hard days of hiking. We've hit our stride and plan to continue to the ocean after our Peregrino communion on Friday.

A few years ago, Scott and I read together an old Christian classic called The Pilgrim's Progress. In it, a Christian soul is constantly assaulted by a variety of temptations as he travels The Way. An ongoing joke has been the constant temptations of Gluttony our Way. The food and wine has indeed been wonderful, easy to find and well priced. Among the memories of our Camino we will also include the daily cafe con leche, the obscene Botillo Medieval, and the delightful Mencia grape. Good Lord deliver us?


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Two similar days

We seem to have settled into a pilgrim rhythm. We remembered to say prayers this morning even in the sterile common room of the modern albergue at Portomarin. Last night we met two new pilgrims from Ireland who had just finished their first day. It was nice to feel like veterans.

The landscape has been neither as ugly as outside Leon nor as stunning as the last post. It is rural and ancient feeling and then congested and modern by turns. The way is much more crowded now, and while we are seeing many familiar faces from the previous week we are now joined by many who are on an even shorter pilgrimage than we are. We are only three days out from Campostela and plan to continue on to the ocean.


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