Slow Camino

We've walked just over 200 kilometers and have under 150 to go. Because we have so much time, we're intentionally slowing down a bit. Today we passed through O Cebreiro, one of the featured spots on the way. It's a stone village atop a hill where several miracles happened. We made a long stop there and took our time in prayer. We ended our day at a farm village where we had a feast of soup, stew and local wine followed by a nap!


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Near Galicia

We've ended today about two miles shy of the highest peak we reach on our Camino. On the other side lies Galicia, the province with Campostela. We leave behind the region of Bierzo where, in addition to beautiful landscapes, some alive churches and a few very fine meals, we also met a pair of very cool Americans, our first. Bill and Julie are gregarious outdoorsy types who filled us with stories of their worldwide adventures before easily outpacing us this morning. This afternoon we went slowly up the steep hill among full streams and creeks.


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A short day

Today we walked only in the morning and have settled early at Villafranca. Here there is a church door, pictured below, which is the only spot on the Camino where, if you were very ill, you could earn credit for completion of the walk without arriving in Campostela. The church itself is perhaps the most sacred spot yet and we both spent a time inside in prayer.


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Two days

Yesterday my connection didn't work so today I post for two days.

Yesterday morning was the most beautiful and meaningful stretch so far. We got up in the dark and, thanks to the help of our headlamps and some French peregrinos, made our way through soggy fields. We arrived at a 2000 year old village, mostly abandoned where we did our prayers and were then served breakfast by a guy who could have been from Bolinas except he spoke Spanish. We went over a 1500 meter hill, at the top of which is a cross where pilgrims traditionally deposit a rock they have brought up from the plain. From the rest of the day and into today we have hiked down and well into the plain of Bierzo. We have gone from stunning mountain views, to ugly town and highway and now vineyard landscape. We have remained faithful to the Camino. Our feet are sore and it feels like we are experiencing some sort of deep shift.


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Free!

Today, our third day on the Camino, we finally broke free. The landscape became spare enough and the sounds quiet enough that we can attend to the deeper currents of what it means for us to walk this way. We've ended the day in the small hill village of Radanel del Camino.


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Another ugly day

Today was another whole day walking along a highway. In part, this was our choice. The Spanish government has clearly put a lot of effort making the Camino an attractive tourist option and so created various scenic alternatives along the way. At the clear urging of older local men we encountered along the way, we always chose the ancient route, even when ugly. The image is of a brand new pedestrian bridge built to take pilgrims over railroad tracks outside of Astroga. There have been moments of grace, to be sure, and we hope for a less cluttered and noisy experience soon. We're a bit sore but in good shape.


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Our first day

Today, after a late start, was our first day on the Camino. It was long and grim, mostly in industrial areas. In any case the company was excellent and the trail well marked. Perhaps the best part of the day was that people actually wished us 'bien camino' throughout. It seems we've joined the tribe.


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We've arrived!

This afternoon we arrived in Leon, the starting point of our Camino. This is a picture of Scott, my fellow 'peregrino,' in front of the Leon Cathedral. Shortly after this picture was taken, we got the first stamp on our Credencial. Tomorrow we begin our walk!


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My last day at home

Here are most, if not all, of the contents of my bag. It seems to be about 13 lbs.

It was a beautiful last day at church. I will carry with me a shell, an angel and a St. Christopher medal from St. Paul's. Chloe, Harper and Simon have given me a great last dinner and I got some delightful messages from friends and family. Tomorrow it begins!


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Credencial del Peregrino

I leave in two weeks. This weekend I got my Credencial, pictured here, which is a kind of passport for the Camino. It looks like you get it stamped along the way.

It has a lovely 12th century prayer on it. 'God, You called your servant Abraham from Ur in Chaldea, watching over him in all his wanderings, and guided the Hebrew people as they crossed the desert. Guard these your children who, for the love of your Name, make a pilgrimage to Compostela. Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in the heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with grace and virtue, may return to their homes filled with salutory and lasting joy.'

Please pray for us and especially for the families and churches Scott and I will be leaving behind. We are incredibly blessed to be given this opportunity!


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